February, 2022

February 25, 2022

How to Clean Your Guinea Pig’s Grease Gland

How to Clean Your Guinea Pig’s Grease Gland

One of the less fun tasks a guinea pig pet parent is faced with is caring for their pet’s skin and coat…and this can be a particularly dirty job. In this blog post, we’ll cover one of the less glamorous, yet essential, tasks of keeping your guinea pig clean: cleaning their grease gland. 

What is a grease gland? 

The grease gland is what a guinea pig uses to scent mark their territory. It is located at the end of their spine, about where a tail would be if they had one. The gland secretes a thick, oily substance which turns into a gum-like consistency as it dries. The secretions tend to dry on the fur and skin surrounding the gland. If not properly cared for, this can matt the fur on their behind; over time, this matted fur will collect shed skin, hay pieces, and other unhygienic debris. This understandably becomes uncomfortable for your pet! Cleaning their grease gland can help relieve the skin irritation and tension that occurs when fur is matted and can also help prevent potential infections. 

Does my female guinea pig have a grease gland? 

While boars (males) may have more active grease glands and therefore may need to be cleaned more often, female guinea pigs also have grease glands. You might not need to clean a female guinea pig’s grease gland as much as you would with a male, but this is not always the case. Grease gland production is a hormonally-driven process. If a female is intact or particularly dominant, or if there are intact males nearby, this can mean that a female might have a more active grease gland. 

How often do I clean my guinea pig’s grease gland? 

This answer really depends on how active your pet’s grease gland is, and there isn’t a set schedule in which you should clean a grease gland. Pet parents with boars will likely need to clean their guinea pig’s grease gland more frequently than sows, but every pet is a unique individual. Regardless of whether your pet is male or female, check your guinea pig’s grease gland once a month to see how much gummed-up material is present. 

What supplies do I need?

  • At the time of this writing, there is not a product specifically made for the grease gland cleaning process. The safest methods we’d recommend are to use either coconut oil or diluted Dawn dish soap. 
  • A bottle that has been thoroughly cleaned of any products, if using the Dawn method 
  • If you get easily grossed out, a pair of non-latex gloves to wear 
  • Your pet’s favorite healthy treats, herbs, or greens (NOTE: do not use a treat that can cause GI upset if eaten in large quantities) 
  • Guinea pig-safe shampoo, if using the coconut oil method 
  • 3 dry towels (1 for grease gland cleaning, 1 to dry your guinea pig post-bath, and 1 for your guinea pig to rest in post-bath) 
  • A loaf pan or casserole dish, or some kind of flat container that won’t tip over easily 
  • Cotton swabs, if you don’t want to use your fingertips 
  • A gentle comb if your guinea pig is a long-haired breed 
  • A second person who can keep your pet distracted is very helpful, especially if this is the first time you’ve cleaned a grease gland 

If using the Dawn method: Dawn is very good at cutting grease; using Dawn at its full concentration on your guinea pig’s grease gland can not only remove grease gland buildup, but can also unintentionally strip the healthy, necessary oils from their fur and skin in this area. This will create problems for your pet, such as dry, flaky, and irritated skin. Diluting this soap into a soap-and-water solution is absolutely necessary for your pet’s comfort. Start with your squeaky-clean bottle. Measure out the Dawn and the water; your solution should consist of ¼ Dawn and ¾ water, so using ¼ cup and ¾ cup respectively will give you a lot of diluted Dawn to use for future grease gland cleanings. Once the proper amount of each ingredient has been added to the bottle, shake well to mix. 

Getting down to business

Have your Dawn solution or coconut oil ready, as well as your pet’s favorite treats. Collect your guinea pig from their enclosure and use the first towel as a lap pad. With your pet facing away from you and sufficiently distracted with food, apply your coconut oil or dilute Dawn to the gunked-up area around their grease gland. Gently work the product in with your fingertips without excessively pulling at their fur. Your pet might find this unpleasant and may vocally protest, but usually their favorite food is enough to keep them from turning around or struggling to get away.  

Let the product sit on the “gunky” area to do its thing for a minute, making sure that your pet doesn’t turn around to groom themselves. After a minute, use your fingers (or a cotton swab) to gently rub the gooey grease gland. The grease may dissolve entirely, or you might find the clump breaks up, making the pieces of debris easier to remove. This area is sensitive, so again, do not pull at fur. In long-hair breeds, you might need to gently comb out debris rather than removing it by hand or cotton swab. 

Washing up 

A note on baths: We highly recommend using a clean casserole dish or loaf pan as a mini bathtub for your guinea pig if you ever need to bathe them. Simply fill the dish or pan with an inch of warm water and set it in the middle of your human bathtub. Do not fill a human-sized bathtub or hold your pet under the sink faucet to bathe them. Most guinea pigs do not like water, so the less water that is present the better. Regardless of how many viral videos insist that this species loves to swim, in actuality most guinea pigs find that being submerged in water to any extent is a frightening, even traumatic, experience. Using small amounts of non-running water in a contained setting (such as a dish) will greatly reduce the fear factor for your little one whenever bath time rolls around. Our recommended method also ensures that the chances of your pet accidentally breathing in water if they wiggle out of your grip is kept to a minimum. If your guinea pig cannot solidly stand on all four legs or needs to lift their head up to stay above water, this water is far too deep. 

Once all the gunk and debris is gone, the “degreaser” needs to be rinsed away! Have your loaf pan or casserole dish ready with 1 inch of comfortably warm water. Place your guinea pig in the dish so they are standing on their hind legs while you securely restrain their front legs to prevent them from jumping or bolting (learn about how to properly hold your pet here). Use your free hand to rinse off the grease gland with water in the dish. If you used coconut oil, a small amount of guinea pig-safe shampoo may be needed to wash away all of the oil. 

Once all the soap or oil is gone, remove your pet promptly and wrap them in a towel to stay warm. Your pet will more than likely be cross with you at this point! Plan for another treat offering as you open the towel and begin to pat dry whatever water you can from their coat.  

After excess water is removed, your pet can go back into their enclosure. Once they’re home, they shake and groom themselves to get dry faster. Giving them a towel to snuggle up in for an hour can help absorb more water from their fur, just make sure to remove it and check that their bedding is not excessively wet (bedding may need to be spot cleaned or replaced if it is damp). 

Pet parenthood isn’t always pretty, and sometimes it can be a downright thankless job—grease gland cleaning is often a reminder of this fact. But regardless of how cross your pet may be in the short-term, making sure they are clean and comfortable will go a long way to giving your pet a long, happy life. 

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February 17, 2022

How to Use Hay Fines for DIY Snacks

How to Use Hay Fines for DIY Snacks
by Patricia Larson, LVT and Kellie Hayden

What should I do with the small bits of hay in the bottom of the bag?   

We have all seen the small pieces of hay and dust peering up longingly at us from the bottom of the bag or box.  Discovering these bits of hay at the bag’s bottom is perfectly normal; after all, hay is a delicate, naturally dry product.  Even still, we know that throwing any amount of fiber-rich hay away can feel like such a waste.  

But, what if we told you that you can use these leftovers for fun enrichment for your pet? Rather than throw your hay dust and fines in the trash, we encourage you to try one of these fun recipes to put them to use. 

 

Baked Treats Recipe

For this activity, you will need: 

  • 1 small carrot 
  • ½ banana 
  • ¼ cup rolled oats 
  • ¼ cup hay dust and/or fines  
  • A blender or food processer 
  • Parchment paper 
  • Baking sheet 

Step 1: Blend together the oats and hay dust and fines until ground as small as possible.  
Step 2: Blend your carrots and banana together and add to dry ingredients.  If the mixture is too dry add very small amounts of water at a time.
Step 3: Form small cookies with the “dough.” Put the mixture into a clean sandwich bag and pipe onto on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  
Step 4: Bake at 325 for 30min.  

Step 5: Let the treats cool and enjoy! 

 

Banana Bites

For this activity, you will need: 

  • One or two small slices of banana per pet  
  • A small amount of hay dust/fines 

Simply slice the banana and roll the slices in hay fines. Offer to your pet(s) and enjoy watching them devour this tasty, fiber-enhanced treat! 

 

Stuffed Peppers

For this activity, you will need: 

  • ½ cup applesauce (boil apple slices in water for ½ an hour and blend the slices to make homemade applesauce)
  • ¼ cup hay dust and fines 
  • Small sweet peppers or the ends of a bell pepper
  • Blender or food processer 
  • Freezer (optional)

Step 1: Blend your hay fines until they are ground as fine as possible.  
Step 2: Mix with the applesauce and fill the sweet peppers with the mixture.  
Step 3: Serve as-is, or freeze for at least 5 hours during the summer to help your pets stay cool
Step 4: Offer the treats and enjoy the fun! 

 

Other Fun DIY Activities

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February 11, 2022

Ask A Small Animal Vet: How Often Should Your Guinea Pig’s Teeth Be Trimmed?

Ask A Small Animal Vet: How Often Should Your Guinea Pig’s Teeth Be Trimmed?

How Often Should a Guinea Pig's Teeth Be Trimmed?

Dr. Micah Kohles, Vice President of Technical Services & Research, Oxbow Animal Health 

Well, the answer I want to give you (i.e., the "right" answer) is “never.” Because, if we are feeding the right diets and the right forages, we shouldn't honestly ever have to trim those teeth at all. We know that the dentition of guinea pigs constantly grows, right? Not only their front teeth, their incisors, but obviously their molars. If they're getting ample amounts of long-strand, high-quality forage, and they're forced to facilitate that natural chewing motion, most guinea pigs don't necessarily need their teeth trimmed.

Now, there are obviously exceptions, such as congenital defects. In a rare instance, guinea pigs are born with an abnormality that leads to a disruption of normal dentition. And, in those instances, sometimes we do have to trim their teeth.

If guinea pigs are not fed an appropriate diet and develop malocclusion, this can be another exception. The lower cheek teeth in guinea pigs actually grow lingually, right? So, they grow over the surface of the tongue. If those teeth get too elongated, we do need to trim them. And sometimes once that dental disease has already begun to develop, even if we correct diet we may have to adjust that (by trimming the teeth). 

Now, how frequently? It really depends on the specific case. I've had numerous examples myself, where guinea pigs have had underlying dental disease (elongated incisors, maybe some spurs on their molar cheek teeth that we've gone in and corrected), we’ve adjusted their diet, and then monitored - never, ever having to go back in and do additional work.

I've also had other cases where the dental disease is maybe more significant. Maybe we have to treat that in different stages over time. Or, certainly, if we do end up having to remove teeth (or they lose teeth) and we lose that direct contact (the upper teeth interacting with the lower teeth) that interaction is what drives that wear and tear. If we remove one component of that and we remove that oppositional force, then absolutely we're going to get that tooth overgrown, and we'll have to trim that more regularly.

In some cases, if we have a damaged incisor or a dead incisor that we have to remove, it may even be something where you need to talk to your veterinarian about going ahead and removing that opposite tooth so that we don't have to continue to trim them over time.

But, I would really strongly suggest you dig into nutrition. Look at those long-strand forages, even look at some other chew items (e.g., appropriate plant-based chew items, untreated woods, other coarse types of plant material.)  A lot of guinea pigs and other small herbivores are really good at wanting to chew those materials/items; it's how they explore the world.

And again, that additional wear and tear on top of those forages may just be enough to get us over the hump and not have to trim them any more than we have to. Certainly, if we need to, we need to.  But, anything we can do to decrease the frequency or to avoid having to do that is certainly going to be advantageous.

What About Other Small Pet Species? Should They Have Their Teeth Trimmed?

Like guinea pigs, our goal (and the standard of care) is that they should rarely if ever, need their teeth trimmed. This, of course, can only occur if they align to the proper diet that is high in free choice grass hays and other forage items. That being said, there are always outliers such as congenital/genetic abnormalities or trauma/accident-induced dental pathologies that, while infrequent, can occur and require lifelong therapy. It is important to remember that with our hindgut fermenting species’ (like guinea pigs, chinchillas, and rabbits) their dental arcade grow throughout their life, and while it is easy to see the front incisors, it is difficult to properly examine the molar or check teeth (which is most commonly where dental disease first appears) without proper equipment and sometimes even sedation or anesthesia. Again, the key is offering a variety of free choice high-quality long-stranded forages like Timothy, Orchard, and oat hays, to really facilitate their natural chewing behavior involving the entire dental arcade.  Small omnivores (like rats, hamsters, and mice) don’t have continuously growing molar/cheek teeth, but their incisors (the front teeth) do constantly grow throughout their life. Providing small omnivores with a high-quality uniform kibble, pellet, or rodent block, along with appropriate chew/forage items, will go a long way in keeping those incisors appropriately worn.

Additionally, all small pets (herbivores and omnivores alike) really benefit from constant access to a variety of chews made from natural, fibrous materials. Not only do these items provide great wear and tear on these animals’ teeth, but it provides an enriching outlet for them to interact with their environment in a natural and meaningful way. 

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February 10, 2022

How to Prevent and Treat Bumblefoot and Foot Spurs in Guinea Pigs

How to Prevent and Treat Bumblefoot and Foot Spurs in Guinea Pigs

Foot health is not a topic at the forefront of every pet parent’s mind—and given everything else that pet parents must factor in when providing their pets with a happy and healthy life, it’s no surprise This article covers two of the most common foot problems in guinea pigs, as well as methods of care and prevention.

Bumblefoot

Bumblefoot (also called pododermatitis) is, unfortunately, one of the more common foot issues that veterinarians treat in guinea pigs. Bumblefoot is an infection of a guinea pig’s footpad and is often a result of inappropriate habitat conditions. Even mild cases of bumblefoot can be excruciatingly painful for pets—if you suspect your guinea pig is suffering from bumblefoot, seek the guidance of an exotics veterinarian right away.

Bumblefoot in guinea pigs

A severe and very painful case of bumblefoot in a guinea pig. Quality care and treatment cured this case of bumblefoot! Photo provided by Asheville Guinea Pig Rescue.

Symptoms

  • Scrapes, scratches, or any kind of open wound on an animal’s foot pad
  • Crusted over or opened scabs
  • Limping or decreased/limited mobility
  • A reluctance to move around, run, or play
  • Weight loss (due to pain or reluctance to walk over to food)
  • Swollen, irritated footpads—in the case of guinea pigs with pink foot pads, they will be red rather than a healthy pink
  • In more severe cases, the entire foot or limb can be swollen

Bumblefoot in guinea pigsBumblefoot in guinea pigs

While bumblefoot is a relatively common condition in guinea pigs, it should not be considered normal or a “fact of life.” It needs be treated with the advice of a veterinary professional. Notice how these two cases of bumblefoot have scabs and swollen, red foot pads. Photos provided by Metropolitan Guinea Pig Rescue.

Bumblefoot in guinea pigsBumblefoot in guinea pigs

Some guinea pigs don’t have pink foot pads! In this case, it’s helpful to look for cuts/wound, scabs, swelling, and dry, crusty foot pads. Photos provided by Metropolitan Guinea Pig Rescue.

Causes and Prevention

It’s strongly recommended that guinea pigs are never kept in a wire-bottom cage. While wire-bottom cages can make the cleaning process easier for pet parents, the grates of these cages irritate the soft pads of pets’ feet. If a pet is left to live with this kind of cage bottom for long enough, sores and open wounds can develop on their feet, inevitably leading to infection if untreated. This is why removing any wire bottoms on cages, or replacing an enclosure altogether, is one of the most important steps pet parents can take in preventing bumblefoot.

Ensuring your pet has a sanitary living space is also an essential part of bumblefoot prevention. Your pet’s habitat needs to be cleaned at least once a week where substrate is removed and fresh, soft bedding is provided. It’s been thought that wet environments may play a role in the development of bumblefoot—check your pet’s habitat daily for excess moisture and replace any wet bedding with dry bedding as necessary.

Species-appropriate nutrition and plenty of exercise both increase your pet’s ability to fight off infection. Your pet also needs enough daily vitamins and minerals through a healthy uniform food. Guinea pigs in particular need to receive enough vitamin C daily. While guinea pig food has some vitamin C, providing a vet-approved supplement (natural science link) is the best way to provide your pet with consistent vitamin C. Your pet should also have regular access to space outside of their habitat to run and play.

Without addressing the underlying issues that cause infection, it’s possible for bumblefoot to reoccur. If you don’t know what caused the infection, your veterinarian, guinea pig rescues, and even other pet parents can be great resources. By discussing your pet’s habitat conditions with others, you can get to the bottom of what needs to be changed within your pet’s living space.

Treatment

Bumblefoot must be treated with the advice of a cavy-savvy veterinary professional. These infections often require antibiotics that are specifically selected to target the types of bacteria causing the issue (requesting the infection be cultured will help ensure that the prescribed antibiotic is effective). Pets also need to be treated for pain in order to keep them comfortable, as bumblefoot can be an agonizing condition. After an assessment, your veterinarian can prescribe additional care, such as medicated foot baths, cleaning, and wound wrapping.

If your pet does have bumblefoot, keep in mind that this condition takes time and effort to cure—there is no overnight fix. Your pet will need daily care (sometimes care more than once a day) in order to fully recover.

In some severe cases, bumblefoot can be so severe that it infects the bone, meaning that the affected feet may need to be amputated in order to save the pet’s life. In cases like these, pet parents should understand what recovery steps are necessary for their guinea pig after this type of major surgery. Your pet will likely need their habitat adjusted for accessibility to food, water, and hiding space so they can still live a happy life.

Foot Spurs & Corns

While this doesn’t happen to all guinea pigs, some may develop tough, crusty callouses on their feet. Some pet parents call them spurs, while others call them corns. While this condition doesn’t pose a direct threat to your pet, it’s important to identify when your guinea pig has this condition so they can be regularly cared for.

Spurs may appear to be an issue of the outer layer of skin, but they’re actually attached to the dermis (the tissue below the epidermis). Similar to toenails, spurs can sometimes develop blood flow—which means that you can’t simply pull or scrape them off.

Guinea pig foot spurs and cornsGuinea pig spur and cornGuinea pig foot spur and corn

“Spurs” or “corns” can vary in regard to where they can be found on foot pads, and might vary in number from pet to pet. In all cases, however, pets with this condition need to receive proper husbandry to avoid complications like illness or infection from tears or irritation. Photos provided by Asheville Guinea Pig Rescue.

Symptoms

Pet parents usually first notice spurs when they’re holding their pet’s paws in their hands. Smaller spurs can feel like a small bump or protrusion from the foot pad, with slightly dry skin; larger spurs can feel like a tough, cracked, and crusty flap of skin growing out of the pad.

If your pet has long, untrimmed spurs on their front feet, they may try to relieve discomfort by lifting their front feet into the air while their back feet stay firmly planted. This might be confused with (but is different from) popcorning, where all four feet leave the ground for a happy jump or leap.

Causes and Prevention

The cause of spurs is relatively unknown, though some suspect that genetics can play a role in the development of this condition. While there is no known way to prevent spurs, they can be maintained similar to toenails in order to prevent more serious conditions from occurring.

Spurs may be more noticeable in older pets and may increase in number as your pet ages. Spurs can occur on all four feet, but pet parents may find that they’re more common on front feet.

Treatment

Regularly trimming spurs can ensure that blood flow does not extend far into this tissue. Trimming spurs regularly can also go a long way in preventing tears and open cuts on the footpad, thereby preventing infection.

Trimming doesn’t need to be a huge additional task—it can be done during you pet’s routine nail trim! Nail clippers can be used to trim back the spurs to about ¼ of an inch from the foot pad (remember to treat spurs like you would a toenail with a quick—do not trim them all the way to the pad).

If your pet has spurs, they might also experience scaly, cracked foot pads, especially in cold or dry weather. Rubbing a small amount of organic, cold-pressed coconut oil onto their footpad is a non-toxic option that can help moisturize skin and provide relief to your pet.

As with many other aspects of health, prevention is the best medicine! Many serious health issues can be prevented with proper care and maintenance, and foot problems that can affect your pet’s health are no different.

We’d like to thank Asheville Guinea Pig Rescue and Metropolitan Guinea Pig Rescue for providing photos of spurs and bumblefoot. Both rescues have many guinea pigs looking for forever homes—and both rescues are a wealth of knowledge for potential fosters and adoptees! We’d like to encourage those who found this article informative to show your support for these two amazing organizations.

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February 03, 2022

How To Care For Your Rabbit

How To Care For Your Rabbit

Your rabbit is a cherished member of your family and we know you want to provide bun bun with everything he needs to be happy and healthy every day.  That's why we've put together this collection of essential rabbit care tips. 

In this article, we'll cover the following important topics:

  • Feeding your rabbit
  • Rabbit behaviors 
  • Enriching your rabbit's world 
  • Housing your rabbit
  • Your rabbit's health    

Feeding Your Rabbit

  • Grass hay should be the high fiber cornerstone of every herbivore's diet, and your rabbit is no exception!  The high amounts of beneficial fiber in hay help meet the important digestive and dental health needs of rabbits and other small herbivores.
  • A daily recommended amount of uniform, fortified food provides essential nutrients (e.g., vitamins and minerals) not found in hay.
  • Fresh, rabbit-friendly greens are an essential component of every bunny's daily diet.
  • Healthy treats, while not nutritionally essential, can help make your relationship with your rabbit more fun and meaningful

Hay For Your Rabbit

Your rabbit should have unlimited access to a variety of quality grass hays. Among many benefits, hay helps prevent obesity, boredom, and dental and gastrointestinal disease. Replacing the hay in your rabbit’s habitat can encourage picky eating, so we recommend changing it only when soiled.  Offer a variety of types of grass hay to further discourage unhealthy picky eating habits.  

Young (less than a year old), pregnant, nursing or ill animals can benefit from eating alfalfa hay in addition to grass hay because of the higher nutritional content (including higher levels of protein and calcium). Otherwise, alfalfa should only be given occasionally as a treat.

Hay Selection

Keep in mind that grass hay should make up the majority of your pet’s daily diet. Offer a variety of hay to your rabbit to promote optimum health. Since hay is a natural product, each bag will look and feel different. Use our Taste & Texture Guide located on every hay package to determine your pet’s taste and texture preferences.

We have many all-natural, farm-fresh hays to choose from including Western Timothy, Orchard Grass, Oat Hay, Botanical Hay, Organic Meadow Hay, and Hay Blends - Western Timothy & Orchard. Also, check out our Harvest Stacks line of compressed hays for extra enrichment.

Your Rabbit's Food

Providing a daily recommended amount of high-fiber, age-appropriate fortified food will help ensure that your pet receives essential nutrients not found in hay.

How to Select the Right Food for your Rabbit

Always choose an age-appropriate, uniform food formulated specifically for rabbits.  Oxbow offers a number of quality food lines to meet the unique preferences of all rabbits.  Not sure which to choose?  Check out this article outlining the unique characteristics of each of our food lines.

Greens For Your Rabbit

Fresh greens are an important part of your rabbit’s daily diet.  Greens help keep your bunny hydrated and offer important vitamins and minerals, as well as enrichment.  Romaine, bib, and red leaf lettuce are good greens to offer, but avoid foods in the onion family such as leeks, chives, and onions.  Learn more about the best greens for rabbits

Treats For Rabbits

Treats (including fruits and veggies) are great for encouraging interaction between you and your pet, but they should only be given after basic daily foods have been eaten.  Offering too many treats can cause your rabbit to refuse his healthy, essential foods.  It’s important to remember that not all treats are created equal!  All Oxbow Simple Rewards treat varieties are designed to be as wholesome as they are delicious. 

Rabbit Behaviors

Rabbits are inquisitive and curious by nature.  Many rabbits don't like to be picked up or carried.  The best way to interact with your rabbit is to get down to his level and play with him on the floor.  This is especially true for new pet parents and families with small children.  Be sure you are always with your rabbit when he is out for playtime; many rabbits are adept at getting into trouble if left alone!

Some rabbit behaviors can seem rather strange.  For example, you may see your rabbit eat its own poop.  This is normal, healthy behavior that provides essential vitamins and nutrients. 

Enriching Your Rabbit's World

All rabbits are wired to engage in a set of core instinctual behaviors each day.  These behaviors include chewing, playing, hiding, and exploring.  Intentionally encouraging these behaviors in healthy ways is called enrichment.  Support all four behaviors in a variety of ways each day to support your rabbit's mental and physical health.     

Housing Your Rabbit

It’s easy to make rabbits feel at home inside your house.  As prey animals by nature, all rabbits (even those with a free run of the house) need a safe place where they can spend time and escape potential environmental stressors.  Choose a spacious, quality habitat with a solid floor and set it up near household activities, but away from drafts.  Your rabbit’s habitat should be outfitted with environmental essentials such as a hay habitat (Timothy CLUB Bungalow or Tunnel), a litter box lined with litter, multiple chews, grass hay, a food bowl, and two sources of fresh, clean water.    

Your Rabbit’s Health

Many rabbit health problems are a result of nutrition, diet, digestive and dental issues.  Contact your veterinarian if you notice any of the following symptoms:

  • Loose, soft, or lack of stool
  • Small, dry, or infrequent stools
  • Blood in the urine
  • Sneezing or trouble breathing
  • Hunching  in a corner or lack of activity (lethargy)
  • Overgrown front teeth
  • Observed difficulty with chewing
  • Bald patches in the fur
  • Sores on the feet
  • Abnormal eating or drinking

Still have questions about how to best care for your rabbit? Our experts are here for you! 

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